Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
